Love Letter: Chile Verde at Tres Hermanas
(Love Letter will be a weekly feature wherein Becky writes about a favorite dish. The focus will be on the tried-and-true, not the up-and-coming and trendy.)

Tres Hermanas is one of the closest restaurants to my house, and one that is insanely popular. I know better than to even try to get a table on a Friday or Saturday – the line starts in the early afternoon because the hearty food and large portions make it appealing to families. ┬áLuckily, they are adept at handling crowds and except for peak times, you probably won’t wait too long.

Like many dishes I’ll be highlighting in Love Letter, the chile verde at Tres is the only dish I ever get there. It’s perfect so I see no need to change it up. The pork shoulder is always flaking and soft, and you rarely encounter a bite of pure fat – which is common with other chile verdes. The sauce is so thick that I always wonder how they make a tomatillo sauce so darned rich. It has no trace of the wateriness that can accompany tomatillos. Maybe they simmer it down for hours? Maybe the sisters use magic?

There’s just a smattering of pico de gallo to crunch up the tacos which I make with the provided tortillas. I alternate between flour and corn, depending on my whim. The rice is savory and the beans are snuggled under the warm cheese blanket that’s the hallmark of Mexican-American dinner plates.

I have a big appetite, but after a basket or two of light, hot tortilla chips, the side salad with cilantro dressing (does any fool ever order any other dressing here?) and a tequila a la Mexicana (tequila and Squirt soda with a salted rim), I can only finish about half. The good news is that it is my favorite leftovers lunch of all time. Two meals and the warm feeling that can only come from walking to a neighborhood, family-owned restaurant and knowing that the chile verde will never let you down – all for only 13.99.

Back of the House

Everyone's a Critic

Comments are now closed.